One thing I like about post-Slimane menswear is its firm step into the realm of “urban” (read: “hip hop”, but if I wrote “Hip Hop”, you’d hear 15 designers in denial go “Not at all, this is actually totally rockn roll!”) silhouette. Kris van Assches’s S/S 2010 collection was most certainly my favourite of all his collections so far. Rehearsing his traditional vocabulary, he nonetheless showed here a unprecedented variety in the shapes and ease in their harmonization. A real maturity that made his eponymous company look nothing less credible than a certain big house van Assche also directs. OK, it is a bit tiré par les cheveux to call this urban, but something’s there…

words & images ©Maxime Büchi