Djs:
Raphaël (MEGAFORCE) & Julien Dechery
DORIAN MALIBU 1992
PIPI DE FRECHE
(see below for more details about our djs!)

l’Etablissement se réserve le droit d’entrée x
COME EARLY!

RSVP: rsvp@novembremagazine.com

Chacha Club,
47 rue Berger
75001 Paris

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Raphaël (MEGAFORCE) & Julien Dechery
Raphaël is part of the collective MEGAFORCE, 4 video directors, who just directed the last Madonna video:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/MEGAFORCE/96674497662

DORIAN MALIBU 1992:
http://malibu1992.tumblr.com/

PIPI DE FRECHE:
Dj for Flash Cocotte:
http://www.flashcocotte.com/
http://www.cremedefreche.com/

Tim Blanks has cleverly analysed Patrik Ervell’s latest New York Fashion week collection for Style.com. With an authoritarian influence Ervell described the collection in his own words as the ‘moments of protest that emerge through the cracks and edges of a heavily policed state’. Creating his collection around concepts of the uniform Blanks likens the clothing to ‘those of urban commandos’ and  ‘a Blade Runner -ish combo of tech and retro’.

Check out more here:

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2012MEN-PERVELL

“This is the story of ten beautiful girls who died for fashion, and twice a year for each season they come back to life through their dreams”

That was the gist of the introduction that was read aloud to us in a dimly candle-lit room within the New York Public Library, filled with 10 coffins containing masked models suited in Thom Browne. Jeff Buckley’s “Hallelujah” playing in the background. The show that followed truly felt as though we were transported into that dream. One by one the models entered, walking slowly as if time had come to a lull. The clothing itself was pure fantasy, each garment exaggerated in its own whimsical way; From pencil skirts with far too many buttons extending down to the model’s ankles, to abstracted jackets that barely echoed their traditional forms – completely recreating the human figure. There was one dress adorned with mirrors in a harlequin pattern that left a trail of reflections on the floor. There was a bittersweet element of the show as well, because remember – these are the dreams of girls who have died. The score switched to the “Ice Dance” theme from Edward Scissorhands and I began to notice the nostalgic elements of the clothing – shawls in the shapes of animals, soft spikes protruding from the suits like cartoon’esque distortions. As much as Thom Browne is known for his usage of fetish, this collection also touched on childlike innocence – the final model resembling how I would picture an imaginary queen of dinosaurs.

I left the show feeling touched, with an emotional connection to the performance. And isn’t that how we, as members of the fashion industry, should want to react to collections? It is easy to forget to dream in a business that favors formulaic runways and stale presentations – specifically in New York. All I can say, is thank goodness for Thom Browne.

When I think of Sally La Pointe‘s work, the first images that come to mind are sharp angles, severe cuts, and graphic silhouettes. For her FW12 collection she introduced an element of fluidity and movement that when paired with her more structured garments created a feeling of lightness. What I enjoyed the most was the usage of color and material – I could imagine the entire collection made from hard black fabrics (which would have been fabulous as well) but the decisions to replace black leather with brown, use a loose sequined fabric for a structured  jacket, and include the most divine shades of autumnal cranberry elevated this collection from something strictly on trend to a line with tangible longevity.

With the overflow of mostly unnecessary shows & presentations during New York Fashion Week, it was incredibly refreshing to view the very relevant and much needed collection of Alexandre Plokhov whose slim cuts and sharp layers touched upon dark androgeny while still maintaining a strong masculine presence.

Demented AW12 collection by Bernhardt Willhelm, presented last week at le Trianon in Paris.
Pictures by Reto Schmid

http://www.novembremagazine.com/2012/01/bernhardt-willhelm-aw-2012/
http://www.novembremagazine.com/2012/01/bernhardt-willhelm-aw-2012/
http://www.novembremagazine.com/2012/01/bernhardt-willhelm-aw-2012/
http://www.novembremagazine.com/2012/01/bernhardt-willhelm-aw-2012/

I meant to post this back in October when I was actually in Paris going to the shows, but for some reason or another the ‘publish’ button was never pressed…but even as the fashion months seem to be creeping closer together (thanks to pre-seasons and such) this collection is still on the forefront of my mind. There was a nostalgic warmth and sense of pride that emanated from the garments. Part folklore, part gypsy, part warrior.

Kris van Assche

Dior Homme

Kenzo

Julius

Junn J

Ann Demeulemeester

Pictures by Reto Schmid

Tuomas Laitinen’s cult Finnish label LAITINEN will return to Paris Mens Fashion Week for the Automne-Hiver 2012-13 season, with an intimate presentation on January 22nd, 2012.