1. Damir Doma

    April 5, 2011
    by Maxime Buchi

    During last Men’s fashion week F/W 2011-2012, it got so hectic I didn’t come around posting all the photos I tool. Then when I came back I thought it was too late, I’d rather wait a bit. So here are the images. First of all Damir Doma. One of ma favourite of the season! (all photos ©Maxime Büchi)


  2. Pyschic

    February 21, 2011
    by Adrian Wilson

    & here is my seasonal prediction:


  3. Stefan Sappert of Una Burke

    February 20, 2011
    by Adrian Wilson

    From here

    & see below

    & here


  4. Una B’s Back

    February 19, 2011
    by Adrian Wilson

    She’s never been away of course but new.. (now I have to find the word: work, designs, collection. None apply).

    New objects by Una Burke were on display at Feemasons Hall as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout.  Apart from the fact that British Fashion Week is about as dull as life gets, seeing her and her objects was very exciting. More parred down, more usable and sales conscious than her graduate collection but without losing the craft or personality or credibility. She’s surrounded by some interesting characters too. Colodion Wetplate Artist, Stefan Sappert had photographed the objects and these deserve a post of their own but in the meantime see what he’s doing here > http://www.stefansappert.com/ . And an accompanying short film by 2 very attractive people will get a post here as soon as possible. Sorry, I forgot your complicated names.

    ________________________________________

    Since then, from http://www.thefashionscout.com/ :

    This season Una Burke is not only an exhibitor in our London Fashion Week Exhibition she is also holding a presentation in our showroom. Her A/W 11 collection entitled ‘Meta.Morph’ was illustrated through a short fashion film and a display of key pieces, as well as some stunning wetplate photography from Stefan Sappert.

    Una’s collection of leather body braces was inspired by the work of disabled artist Nicola Lane. The social and mental effects of disability influenced the direction of Una Burke’s fashion film. Collaborating with film director Andreas Waldschutz and with creative directing from Adia Trischler, the experimental film showcasing Una’s designs is purposely uncomfortable and nerving. Taking inspiration from Michael Snow’s iconic 1967 film ‘Wavelength’, the film jars and jumps showing the model staggering around confused and trapped; only to finish with a crowd of clone-like simpletons laughing like clowns as the poor girl in body braces collapses. The model in the film is portrayed as a freakish character and most of her face is covered by the sculptured accessories that hide her identity – a theme Una has followed; the unwarranted shame of having a disability.

    The pieces are intricately constructed using soft leather in a range of dark colours; the strips of leather are folded and held in place by studs and bolts. The complexity of the structures is baffling, but they would be a fabulous way to add a harder edge to a simple look.
    - Words : Louisa Kilburn



  5. the good the bad and the ugly

    January 21, 2011
    by Maxime Buchi

    Today was strange. Strange good, I mean. I was blown away by the Rick Owens show, please by Juun J, pleased by Dries van Noten, struck by Yohji Yamamoto, entertained by Adam Kimmel. One thing that all of them had in common, not to mention yesterday’s Mugler, was the unusual cast. Especially Yohji, I guess. Beyond any pure formal quality of the garments, I am sensitive to the “social” value of an outfit.

    I will post about all this in extenso later, but here are already a


  6. garage music

    i have 200 images of today’s Mugler show. It will take me a couple of days to process them.
    Here is just Jason farrer and his freind whose name I have forgotten, Rico & Nicola, and Dario (not in that order).


  7. funky worm

    November 7, 2010
    by Maxime Buchi

    Adam Kimmel presented his infamous snoop-inspired gangsta fashion while the Ohio Players played “funky worm” for a puzzled audience. If anyone else than me and Adam in the room knew who the soundtrack was by, I will happily invite them for a coffee. After the show I had a fun chat with our old friend & contributor Diane Pernet. And after the chat, myself and a tipsy delegation of the Basel Fashion Institute made our way to Basel where I was scheduled to lecture on the next day.