1. armoring the devil

    January 12, 2012
    by Jeanne-Salome Rochat


  2. Favourite looks from the fall 2012 Women’s Collection of Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci

    January 11, 2012
    by Florence Tetier

    In his Prefall 2012 collection for Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci introduces us to a new version of the Givenchy woman. Well, not entirely new, since the startpoint of this collection was a return to the roots and a luxury recycling of the ideas he’s been developping to define the Givenchy identity for years now. With its muted tones and preppy inspirations (collegeboy caps, boots with leather mock-spats, giant pussybows), this new collection is more wearable (and more commercial) than the main one but in no way weaker.

     


  3. LAITINEN AH12-13

    January 10, 2012
    by Dan Thawley

    LAITINEN AH12-13

    Tuomas Laitinen’s cult Finnish label LAITINEN will return to Paris Mens Fashion Week for the Automne-Hiver 2012-13 season, with an intimate presentation on January 22nd, 2012.


  4. HI-RES

    January 4, 2012
    by Dora Wilkenfeld


    Exploding your notions of futurity one hair flip and anime princess-warrior bodysuit at a time: two must-follow Tumblrs, BCALLA LQQKS PROJECT and Miss Juliana Letton-Huxtable-LaDosha, the hypenate club kid cum revolutionary cum fishiest member of hardcore ballroom rap posse House of LaDosha. Dip into the latter’s pages to find the inner world of Bill Cosby’s queer-positive rave dreamgirl, while BCALLA desiger Brad Callahan offers monthly meditations on the ideal, hyperreal wardrobe.


  5. fashion credits credits for *le déjeuner sur l’herbe*

    December 28, 2011
    by Maxime Buchi

    see
    le déjeuner sur l’herbe
    le déjeuner sur l’herbe
    le déjeuner sur l’herbe



    Avena wrote (and made my day ⨀ ⨽__⨼ ⨀ )


    Omg, yes—I’m so sorry. I’m w/ my family—they r so insane and in my
    torture, I forgot. Here r credits, I wrote them for the grid of images after the interview:

    1.
    Hat, BLESS
    2.
    hat, BLESS
    Jacket, EMPORIO ARMANI
    Jean shorts, PERFECT 69
    3.
    Mesh jacket, VPL
    plastic jacket, ULINE
    white top, ISSEY MIYAKE
    jewelry, AMBERGRIS and BLACKHOUSE
    4.
    Plastic jacket, ULINE
    wool cape, THOM BROWNE
    sweatpants, (customised), CHAMPION
    5.
    dress, ANDRE WALKER
    6.
    (same as 4)
    7.
    Hat, RACHEL COMEY
    8.
    hat, MICH DULCE
    jacket, BERNARD WILHELM
    9.
    hat, RACHEL COMEY
    jacket, LOUISE GRAY
    10.
    jacket, GERLAN JEANS
    jeans, CARHART
    sneakers, YOHJI YAMAMOTO
    11.
    on him (same as #10)
    on her (same as #3, + pants also by ISSEY MIYAKE
    shoes, CESARE PACIOTTI

    Also, I musnt forget Nick’s sweet friend who did hair,
    AKIKO KAWASAKI
    thanks again, there is an image in one of Gerlan’s pics, #19, in which the person on the left is wearing an ADIDAS ORIGINALS jacket and ADIDAS shoes (in case that credit is helpful to ad)

    Peace love joy and prosperity in 2012!!!!!


  6. le déjeuner sur l’herbe

    December 23, 2011
    by Maxime Buchi

    Some time ago, in the scope of Frieze 2011, (Yes I am not good at posting right after something happens. I kinds hold on to the hope it’s a personal style but maybe not.) I strolled to Kensington Gardens with Carri to see a performance that our friend and flatmate stylist Nicholas Royal had been working on. It happened to be an art piece by NY artist Carissa Rodriguezm styled by NY stylist Avena Gallagher! On the spot we bumped into our friend Gerlan and what could have been a quiet inspiring art afternoon became a delirious ravy evening of food and laughs. The piece was finished when we arrived anyway. Still I am )obviously= very interested by the crossovers/collaborations between fashion and contemporary art so I decided to make an interview with Avena on the piece. Here it is!






      Avena Gallagher



      Can you give us a brief background on your life?



    I grew up near Seattle, WA. I first came to NY while in high school to dance in the Macy’s Thanksgiving Parade, and became obsessed with returning as soon as possible to study fashion. I went to FIT but dropped out for a job in advertising that was paying well and more exciting than school at the time.


      And styling career?



    I quit the advertising job after a couple of years and was floating around, dancing a bit, playing keyboard in a band called The Redlights, and waitressing. I eventually got back into fashion assisting stylists. I assisted Patti Wilson, Lori Goldstein (for a short while) and Camilla Nickerson (for 3+ years) before starting on my own. I love photography, I love fashion, but I haven’t necessarily approached styling as a career… it’s more a part of a creative practice that I’m trying to figure out.



      How did you meet Carissa Rodriguez?


    All Filipinos know each other.
    I can’t remember how we met…but our worlds have overlapped for a long time–since the mid-90′s.



      How did the project come about?


    Carissa and I collaborated in NY on a performance piece in NYC about a year ago. We had been wanting to collaborate on something for some time- though we didn’t know what. An impromptu invitation to participate in an group show/happening came up and we put the project together in about a day. We were wanting to reference our shared ethnicity so we ‘installed’ a Filipino girl under a chandelier made of coconuts by artist Wade Guyton. We also made a large flower arrangement to accompany her. I dressed her in a somehow very Pinoy Prada dress with a hazy photoprint of palm trees on it. The whole thing was more or less inspired by a pillow on Imelda Marcos’ couch which read “Nouveau Riche is better than no Riche at all”. We called the piece “Design within Riche”.

    http://www.artinamericamagazine.com/news-opinion/the-scene/2010-04-08/avena-gallagher-carissa-rodriguez-burning-bridges/

    This time, Carissa was invited to do something at the Serpentine Gallery for an event held during Frieze called the Garden Marathon. We decided to do something similar in form to the last project. Instead of using one person as the piece, we used 12 (including ourselves).



      How did the collaboration work (concept, production)?


    Well, I guess the idea was precipitated by the invitation to do something for the event, which was to do with the idea of the garden. Carissa was looking at these works:Le déjeuner sur l’herbe by Edouard Manet, A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte by George Seurat, and “the Storyteller” by Jeff Wall and how they related to the garden concept. I had just spent time in London last summer, when the Serpentine opened the season with the pavilion by architect Peter Zumthor. We started to think about what kinds of ‘garden’ scenes are really contemporary and might mean something to us and be consistent with our work together. Although the “Garden Marathon” activities were held in a geodesic dome erected for the event, the pavilion by architect Peter Zumthor was at the Serpentine and made a perfect setting for a collision of these referenced works and our hap-hazard cultural study. We were also inspired by the impromptu picnics of guestworkers on break one sees on highway medians and corporate gardens throughout “the developing world”, or the large gatherings of domestic worker-women in public spaces on Sundays in China…Transposing/transplanting these scenes into an ‘ideal garden’ by a ‘famous architect’ at a ‘respectable gallery’ at a ‘major art-world event’ seemed interesting…

    What is your relation to contemporary art (what/who do you like, how important is it to you etc??
    I live in a place of concentrated “contemporary art” activity–my boyfriend is an artist, our friends are artists and/or creative people…our neighborhood is becoming a new “contemporary art” zone (Chinatown) and working in fashion is continual effort of reflecting and translating what is happening in art-imagery for more commercially-driven fashion/music imagery. Having said that, what I really like or draw inspiration from is not necessarily art, but regular-life, like the Chinese people in my hood and the way they dress, working-class street style and I also have a passionate love for ethnographic imagery and how style is dictated by culture. I also love how potent style can be when the cultural ideals are strict like with the Polygamist mormons, or the Hassidic Jews, for example….
    In the Serpentine project, I was trying to create “costumes” for the participants which were parodies of different style-characteristics that come from the Philippines or as expressed by Filipino people. My style references were a mix of pre-colonial ethnographic pictures of tribal Filipinos, traditional Spanish-colonial style, domesti-helper clothing (maid clothes, nurse clothes, street cleaner and industrial clothes), as well as low-price, high-street sportswear.



      Where do you feel art and fashion cross?


    They are both ruled by and rule an idea of the contemporary.

    Is it exciting for a stylist to work in a non-fashion context?
    Yes! “fashion” styling is mostly about beauty…it’s about ideas too but the ideas are just used to express the beauty. It’s something cosmetically driven., and also commercially driven. But sometimes the most inspiring and stylish people or things are not necessarily… sexy or cute. Styling outside the context of fashion allows for more varied information, or even confusion…which I am interested in. It can be less apparent or less relevant to popular fashion or culture but super expressive.


    http://www.reenaspaulings.com/



    Among the thumbnails, the first are by photos by Babak Radboy and the others are by Gerlan. Then a couple of reference images.


  7. ACNE PARIS II

    December 13, 2011
    by Dan Thawley

    The lovely people at ACNE STUDIOS are launching their second Paris store tonight, moving into the upper Marais (Paris’ garment district, if you will). The converted electrician’s studio features blood red ceilings, raw concrete beams and gold-tinted windows – along with a raw marble sculpture by the house’s artist du jour, English sculptor Daniel SilverACNE STUDIOS, 3 Rue Froissart Paris 75003 FRANCE www.acnestudios.com

    ACNE STUDIOS, 3 Rue Froissart Paris 75003 FRANCE

    ACNE STUDIOS, 3 Rue Froissart Paris 75003 FRANCE

    ACNE STUDIOS, 3 Rue Froissart Paris 75003 FRANCE

    ACNE STUDIOS, 3 Rue Froissart Paris 75003 FRANCE

    ACNE STUDIOS, 3 Rue Froissart Paris 75003 FRANCE